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Paint correction is the systematic treatment and permanent removal of such things as swirl scratches, bird etchings, water marks, oxidation, cobwebbing, machine buffer trails, hologram effects and micro-marring. The colour of the car can also be restored back to its original depth and warmth.

Paint correction procedures are often the real alternative to having your car re-sprayed, obviously depending on the severity of the defects.

This level of detailing is carried out to remove swirl scratches from your car’s paint. It can also remove some light to medium scratches and other defects. Have a closer look at your car panels the next time the sun shines on it. The darker the colour of car, the more noticeable the defect is.

	Swirl marks which consist of fine scratches in circular or spider web type patterns in the paintwork. These are generally caused by car washes or grit trapped between the cars paint and a traditional sponge during normal washing. These detract from the shine by refracting light rather than reflecting it. These are often the cause of dull paintwork as the full gloss and shine cannot be appreciated. These fine scratches tend to only show up in bright sunlight or bright artificial light. This is due to the fact that the scratches are so fine they only appear in the uppermost surface of the cars paintwork enabling them to be safely removed by careful abrasive polishing returning the shine to your cars paintwork.
	Holograms are another often found paint defect consisting of micro marring in the paints surface. The micro marring produces a stereoscopic image producing an almost 3d effect on the paints surface. These holograms often resemble cloud like formations that appear to 'float' just above the paint surface. These can be removed by careful polishing of the affected areas.
	Scratches in the paintwork can be reduced or removed by careful machine polishing. As a general rule of thumb if you can catch a fingernail in a scratch then it cannot be fully removed by machine polishing alone. As can be seen by the photo to the left the appearance of these scratches can however be reduced to good effect. Full removal would require filling the scratch with paint, wet sanding and then re polishing the area to restore the shine.
	Oxidation happens to paintwork over a period of time. Caused by the loss of pigmentation through bleaching by the sun, this is most common in red paint. Depending on paint depth, the top layer can be removed to expose a new layer of paint underneath. Through the use of specific sealant and waxes, this effect can be slowed down.
	Orange Peel occurs due to excessive build up of wet layers of paint in the application process. As the paint surface is uneven it will not offer great reflectivity. Through a wet sanding process utilising various grades of grit, this effect can be reduced or removed depending on paint depth. Once sanded, the compounding and polishing can then take place to refine the finish. This is often found on resprayed vehicles.
	Buffer trails are evidence of a poor machine polish - usually by an inexperienced rotary operator. Typicaly seen after cars have been polished by bodyshops or dealerships where too harsh a compound has been used. These can be removed by repolishing with a finer compound and/or polish.

Paint correction is carried out by rotary polishing, or dual action polishing where appropriate. The effect of these techniques is to re-level the paint and reveal a new, fresh and uncontaminated layer below. Approximately 2 or 3 microns of outer thickness is removed in the process. This is why the paint’s gloss, clarity and depth return.

Over 95% of vehicles fall into the category of needing a full correction detail. Once carried out, this level of work will rarely need to be carried out to such an extent again as long as the finish is maintained. It consists briefly of the following stages:

• Paint depth readings taken and recorded. Allow high and low spots to be recorded along with finding any repair work that may need special attention.
• Citrus degreaser applied to whole vehicle.
• Glue and tar remover applied locally where required.
• Wheels, tyres, arches and door shuts pre soaked.
• Pre soaked with foam then rinsed, process repeated if necessary.
• Body and wheels washed with paint friendly lambs wool mitts then rinsed.
• Waffle weave towels used to pat dry vehicle.
• Paint decontamination process with clay.
• Trim treated to remove dressing build up.
• Vehicle rewashed and dried.
• Extensive multi-step exterior paintwork correction (including any necessary machine polishing) to remove/reduce unsightly swirls and light scratches
• Vehicle rewashed and dried if necessary to remove polish residue.
• Paintwork cleaner applied to prepare paintwork for coatings.
• Glaze applied to produce depth in the finish.
• Sealant and/or wax applied as required. Depends on paint type.
• Wax/Sealant applied to wheels
• Dressing applied to tyres and trim.
• Exterior metal and chrome cleaned and polished.
• All glass surfaces cleaned.

Why bother with all this when the car will only get dirty again tomorrow?
Paint correction techniques are designed to last. Defects are not merely 'filled' with glazes but actually physically removed. The paintwork is then sealed so the next time the vehicle is washed the paint will look just as good, again and again.